Angulo took over at La Maison 1888 in March after serving as the sous chef at three-Michelin-star restaurants including Le Cinq at the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris, France, and L’Espadon at the Ritz Paris.
Moving from sous chef to head chef brought a change in what the job demands, he says.
As a sous chef, his world used to revolve around technique and ingredients, but now the work is more managerial and the volume has doubled.
Rather than standing at the stove, he now oversees training and monitors every step of the process to ensure each dish meets the standard.
Before service begins daily, Angulo gathers his team to run through the menu and guest requirements. His criteria for hiring has nothing to do with glamour or Michelin reputation, but comes down to a love for the craft.
“I just need to watch how they use their hands when they cook to know whether they have a passion for it,” he says.
Once ingredients arrive from suppliers, the prep cooks begin their work. Angulo moves through the kitchen, watching over every stage, down to details as small as how asparagus is being trimmed.
He says: “If I don’t check, small mistakes appear and lead to bigger problems. I have to stay behind everything to make sure it’s done right.”
He leaves no margin for error in his kitchen, he says.
Every slip has an impact on the guest experience, he fears.
If mistakes pile up, diners can end up waiting up to seven minutes for a course. This is something he considers unacceptable in a Michelin-level operation.
He spends a portion of each shift tasting and inspecting dishes before they reach the table. What he finds hardest to accept is a guest leaving disappointed after spending a considerable amount of money and arriving with expectations.
“If a dish doesn’t score 100 out of 100, I send it back. I taste every single thing we serve during the day.”
To keep his palate sharp, he drinks water between each tasting.
During every shift, he samples more than 50 ingredients and dishes.
To be ready for guests by 6:30 in the evening, his team begins work at 1 in the afternoon.
The kitchen runs hot and demands concentration through every movement.
Angulo describes himself as a quiet person who only speaks up when it is necessary.
He says he is lucky to work alongside a team that understands him and has the same high demands for food standards.
Having worked with Christian Le Squer, the three-Michelin-star consulting chef of La Maison 1888 at Le Cinq, he knows the man’s thinking.
At the restaurant, his role is to translate Christian’s vision and menus into the experience guests receive.
Before the doors open, Angulo sits down with Amedeo (L), the resident sommelier, to work through wine pairings for each dish.
He also coordinates with the front-of-house team, updating them on requests and any food allergies to be aware of.
The service staff are expected to taste the dishes themselves not just to be familiar with the ingredients, but to understand the story and intention behind each one so that they can communicate it to guests.
Angulo says he is not stopping at one Michelin star and is aiming for the next milestone. The hardest part of climbing from one star to two is not about cooking better, but about being consistent in every service, he says.
In his view, consistency is the most demanding challenge of all, requiring a chef to ensure that the team understands and executes at the highest level.
“I came here to go after the next Michelin star. My ambition is to spend my career in three-star restaurants. The pressure is immense but that’s also what drives you forward.”
The Chef’s Table dining room allows guests to enjoy their meals while watching chefs prepare dishes at the kitchen counter beside them. It is also Angulo’s favorite space in the restaurant.
On slower days, Angulo walks the grounds of La Maison 1888, letting his thoughts drift toward new dishes. He estimates that around 80% of his day is consumed by “food” in one form or the other. Even during downtime, he checks messages from suppliers or discusses the next season’s menu with Christian Le Squer.
“I’m happy living this way.”
Sources: VNExpress
